Jordan and I were both born and raised in southern California and neither of us has ever surfed in our lives! McCall's good friend from BYU Idaho, Clare Facer, is a surf instructor so we made her take us surfing! We went to her house in Mission Viejo. She takes us to the garage where there is rack after rack full of surfboards...with more out in a shed! So she picks out boards for us and we load them in her truck. Just as I was thinking we may be cold in the water, she gets us each a wetsuit that fits and we head out. We went to Doheney beach a few minutes from her house. After some practice on the sand, we ventured out with our boards in the water.
Trying to get up on my first wave, my left hand slipped off the board and I slammed my face into the board. I split open my lip and cracked my tooth. So what I'm trying to say is I'm going pro next week.
Jordan and McCall did great and it was so fun to watch them get better. Clare was SO good and she could ride anything and just sit down when she was done. We had such a fun day at the beach!! THANK YOU CLARE!!
how fun that you were able to try surfing!! But ouch that you split your lip open!!!
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